Nikon today released 4 firmware updates for its upper and top level camera bodies.
64GB compact flash cards are now supported and each update brings bug fixes and new features (the D3 seeing the most updates).
Here are the links:
PC:
Nikon D3 v2.02
Nikon D3X v1.01
Nikon D700 v1.02
Nikon D300S v1.01
Mac:
Nikon D3 v2.02
Nikon D3X v1.01
Nikon D700 v1.02
Nikon D300S v1.01
I just purchased a new lens today and after spending a few hours with it, I was rather disappointed with the performance. It seemed softer than a $1000+ lens ought to be. (My sub $500 18-35mm “just for fun lens” was giving sharper results. Now frantic, I set out on the web (as I usually do when panicked) to look for answers.
After doing some googl’ing, I ran across accounts from people with my exact lens, that were experiencing softness and I was pleased to learn that there was an easy fix. Now, there is one caveat, this fix is only possible on Nikon’s upper-tier consumer and pro bodies (D300, D700, D3, D3x, D90 maybe?) so if you have anything else, I’m afraid I don’t have a lot of answers for you right now.
Onwards..
I’ve often noticed an option buried in the setup (wrench) menu of my D3 called “AF fine tune”. I never really paid much attention or really cared to take a look. I figured that the AF should work just fine. Why would I need to fine tune something that I just paid 5 golden bars for? After doing a little research, that question now has an answer. Apparently, due to inherent variabilities in lens and camera body manufacturing, some lenses and some bodies and some combinations of some lenses and bodies (ya dig?) need to be adjusted using this menu option to correct for slight front or back focusing. Makes sense I guess, I mean do you ever stop to think about how a camera lens is made? How much precision is required to resolve a sharp image on a plane using transparent discs made from melted sand and then ground to perfection with rocks? (That’s obviously an oversimplification, but I think you get the idea). OK, so Nikon isn’t perfect. I can’t really comment with certainty on the others, as I have not shot anything else. But at least they gave some of us this fabulous fix, although it is a little disturbing that Nikon has downplayed this feature (and need of this feature) in the instruction manual.
After running my own tests, I found that 2 of my main 3 lenses needed major adjustment. The process was simple and I invite anyone else with a better method to chime in, because this was pretty straight forward. Just grab your tripod and setup a a relatively flat object with fine detail (or a focus chart if you have one) and have it as close to perpendicular to your camera as possible, so you are not battling depth of field. Then format your memory card so you can keep track of your images more easily. Set your camera for JPEG and turn your Picture Control (under shooting options in the main menu) to “Standard”. I did this so there was no unnecessary sharpening going on that could mask the results. I would suggest shooting in M so you have the exact same exposure every time. If you are using a speedlight, set it to M as well. Lastly, set your camera to Single-Servo auto focus with the single AF point dial selected. It’s always a good idea when running tests like this to eliminate as many variables as possible yes?
Now, go into the Setup (wrench) menu on your camera, and find “AF fine tune”. First, turn it on (obvious I hope), then go into “Saved Value”. You will notice that the camera detects and displays the focal length of the lens you have attached at that moment. Any changes you make here will be associated with that lens and will be set automatically every time you attach it to your camera. Now let’s start tweaking things…
Set your fine tune value to -20 and shoot. Then go back into your menu and select -15 and shoot, then -10… Wash, rinse, repeat until you get up to +20. Be sure your tripod is staying in the same place and that your camera is not moving around because we’re dealing with some super fine adjustments, and your camera moving during this process will negate your results (well, not really, since we are using AF, but you will feel more confident about yourself and your results if things aren’t sliding around). I chose to move up the slider in increments of 5, but if you have the time or curiosity, you can adjust in whatever increments you want, but I think 5 is a good starting point.
When you’re done with that tedium, bring all of your test images into Photoshop or whatever you use for study. You will need to be able to get the images fairly close to each other for a side by side comparison in order to make a good judgment of focus. Also, remember to view your images at 100% magnification.
I have provided my results so you can see how I basically setup the test after I shot the images. I just shot a piece of mail sitting on my desk. These are also low resolution, so unfortunately, these can’t be as closely inspected as the original files.
My results and required adjustments were as follows: Remember that “0″ is the default, non-correct focus tuning.
Nikkor 50mm f1.8 AF D - Fine Tune Adjustment = +20
Nikkor 50mm f1.8 AF D Results
Nikkor 70-200mm f2.8 VR – Fine Tune Adjustment = 0
Nikkor 70-200 mm F2.8 VR Results
Nikkor 28-70mm f2.8 AF-S – Fine Tune Adjustment = -15
Nikkor 28-70mm f2.8 AF-S Results
This is basically just a long-winded way of saying adjust the fine tune setting until you get the sharpest results.
So…………….. the results are pretty frightening! I was/am shocked especially at the 50mm. The difference between what I have been shooting at (0) and the correct adjustment (+20) is substantial, equally with the 28-70mm. Interestingly, the 70-200mm is spot on.
After reading posts made by people running similar tests, I found my findings to be fairly consistent with theirs. Ken Rockwell (ughhh..) needed -15 on his D3 with a 28-70mm, and my results mirrored his findings. I also read results from other people needing +20 on their 50mm f1.8 on a D3.. exactly the same as mine. So it would appear, at least on the surface, that the adjustments are fairly universal. It should be kept in mind that this is not necessarily the case and you should test for yourself because every camera and every lens, although supposedly identical, are not. Plus this is a good exercise in training your eye to identify true sharpness in an image. Keep in mind also that the adjustments are more than likely unique to each lens/body combination so, if you are shooting a 50mm f1.8 on a D300, don’t expect your adjustment to be the same as a 50mm f1.8 on a D3 or any other body.
It’s a little painful to think about how long I’ve been shooting without doing this. I thought the 50mm f1.8 was razor sharp before, now that I have done this, I have had to redefine my definition (or at least perception) of what sharp is.
If I get time, I’ll try to post some before and after real world images, just for kicks. Check back or subscribe.
Image courtesy of DPREVIEW.COM
I see that Nikon has unveiled their newest pro DSLR body. The D700. I haven’t yet quite figured out or read how they arrived at the designation “700″. In following the standard Nikonian nomenclature, one might expect that the new body be called the D400, followed by the updated D3 body, which would be called the D3x etc etc.
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